Day 13 – Grosmont to Robin Hood’s Bay – the journey ends, the memories begin

I think it’s fair to say none of us wanted this day to come. We were tired – yes. Some of us had significant injuries – yes. Some of us were sick of living out of a suitcase and moving each day. But the sense of achievement and satisfaction in completing what we set out to do – yes, walk across a country from one side to the other to prove a point and raise valuable research funds for such a worthy charity  – made us all very reluctant for this walking adventure to finally reach its conclusion.

Walking 25kms a day for 12 days is no mean feat. It was hard, as we imagined it would be. Would we want to have MS and have life be this hard everyday? Absolutely not, but we had two dynamic women in Debbie Bird and Dianne Ramsay who do just that and they walked every step of the way with us too.  We take our hats off to you girls.  And we take our hats off to all the other participants on this journey, some who struggled with other chronic illnesses and a special mention to Tansey Keys who unknowingly walked the  whole way with a broken ankle.

You can’t have this dynamic group of women and Doug Lording and Gary Mander successfully complete this journey  without the power of teamwork. We were an extremely determined bunch who provided support for those who needed it and had a collective belief in everyone’s ability to complete this journey.  And with today’s walk being a real heart starter a good dose of laughter, puffing and camaraderie was definitely needed.

Up and up we went, above the clouds, before we reached the crest of a killer hill.  A wonderful cloud inversion with some local folks awaiting us.

I guess today had a bit of everything. Some steep elevation, some road walking, moors and still the odd boggy area, a breathtakingly beautiful Little Beck woodland, the requisite cream tea stop at Falling Foss and more family and friends joining us for the final few miles. A quick lunch break at Northcliffe Holiday Park and we were all ready for the cliff walk towards Robin Hood’s Bay.

The weather had been really divine the whole way but there was a considerable amount of haze for the last few days which had prevented us from seeing the North Sea until the final hour. Here is what we saw looking north.

And here is what we saw looking south – Robin Hood’s Bay.

We were greeted by the MS Society UK at the crest of the steep descent into the Bay. Then a march of sorts ensued with onlookers looking very puzzled with our antics. I’m sure they have seen this many times before but perhaps not 25 walkers all at once.

Tansey’s brother was waiting for us at the bottom with champagne and banner – the banner gradually getting swallowed by the sea as the tide came in. It was a momentous moment somewhat difficult to digest at the time. We were just so proud of ourselves and each other’s efforts.

Tradition has it that you now throw the pebble you collected from the Irish Sea into the North Sea to commemorate your achievement. Some chose to play some hockey doing it while others chose a more traditional way.

Off to the Tourist Office next to get your official “I walked the Coast to Coast” certificate and then sign your name in the Bay Hotel register.

Then for a photo beside the sign recognising your achievement and finally remembering to keep ourselves hydrated at all times.  We all had our photos taken here. I post a subset only. If you have a photo you would like me to add just send to me.

A lovely celebratory dinner followed at the Victoria Hotel. As you can see lasting friendships were made.

Combining the UK contribution with the Australian one we surpassed our original fundraising target by over 50% and successfully raised A$230,000. Each and everyone of the participants contributed equally to this astounding total and we thank all your friends and family for supporting you in your efforts to raise vital funds for continued MS research.

Day 12- Blakey Ridge to Grosmont – a return to civilisation

As mentioned previously it was all a bit difficult to rally everyone in the one spot today so it was only  Pauline, Diane, Kris, Colleen, Liz, Deb, Jackie B and myself who set off from the Lion Inn’s carpark at Blakey Ridge. The rest were about a half hour ahead of us but too great a time difference for us to catch up before lunchtime and then only briefly.  There are many remote stone monuments spread across the moors. One of some significance is Fat Betty. For reasons unknown you are supposed to leave a food offering and take one left behind by someone else. Deb nabbed a Fry’s Mint Cake, some of us went with something one of the walkers had just left (food safety issue really) and we did a bit of marketing for Brookfarm who sponsored us with Mt Bogong macadamia trail mix. Fabulous mix but at this stage of the game we felt we could spare a few.

Today we cross Great Fryup Dale and Glaisdale Moor. All very remote but weather was still divine.

We all enjoyed a leisurely lunch at the Arncliffe Arms – for some fantastic warm homemade tomato soup, for others pumpkin, I think, if you were in the earlier sitting. Here we pose at the famous Beggars Bridge in Glaisdale, built by a young man to woo his fair maiden. You don’t actually cross it on the walk but it was too good a photo opportunity to pass up.

But there was plenty of time for a brief rest today.

For your interest that’s a famous grouse you see before you.

We then stroll through East Arncliffe Wood before emerging into the town of Egton Bridge and then enjoy a short walk along an old toll road into Grosmont.

Some walkers in the opposite direction informed us a horse had jumped the paddock fence and was trotting up and down this road quite distressed. Fortunately locals were alerted but while I was walking ahead I did encounter this beautiful horse. Where’s Denise, the Horse Whisperer, when you need her.

Grosmont is the home of the North York Moors Railway line where enthusiasts maintain and operate steam engine rides mainly from Grosmont to Whitby or Pickering. Kris just had to have a conversation with the Fat Controller to see if a brief journey was a possibility with all the time we had to spare or not.

The rest of us retired to our B&B, Geall Gallery, where Jayne Harrison delighted us with a sit down dinner for 20 plus. Baked Salmon with Potato Dauphinoise and Beans and choice of Eton Mess or Trifle – all gluten free to cater for everyone’s dietary needs. Surrounded by Chris and other artists’ fine paintings, sculptures and jewellery we had plenty of fine mementos to choose from. Some wonderful prints of the Moors in full heather glory were the popular choice and Mike surprised me with a beautiful Chris Geall original of a bluebell forest titled “Badger’s Run”. Now I must definitely get back to Britain in May next time so I can see such a sight for myself.

The night concluded with a fine sing song ably led by Maria with excellent supp0rt by Bron on guitar and Sal with her trusty tambourine. A fun night as we prepared for the conclusion of a wonderful adventure with the final day tomorrow.

 

Day 11 – Ingleby Cross to Blakey Ridge – more moors than you can shake a hiking pole at

Well fed and well rested we started the day with another hefty climb. There was Scarth Wood Moor, Live, Carlton, Cringle, Hasty Bank, Clay Bank Top and Urra Moor. Up, down, up, down but oh so beautiful.

After Urra Moor it levelled out a bit and we soldiered on a disused railway track across Farndale and High Blakey Moor.   These photos are a bit mixed up and were taken at different times of the day as it started quite hazy then cleared but they were all taken on this day and give you some idea of the beauty of this area. Perhaps lacking the majesty of the Lake District they had their own unique appeal and the isolation from civilisation was just wonderful. We saw very few other walkers all day. Maybe they were forewarned to keep clear of the mad Aussies. But Maria and Gary Mander and Heather Raisbeck kept the Union Jack flying amongst our group and from Richmond we were also fortunate to welcome Debbie’s friend, Liz Ede to our noisy pack.

There was talk Liz McDonald might retire this day as two back-to-back 30+km walks was quite a challenge for her as it was for all of us but this photo definitely suggests otherwise. I am pleased to say she never once took the opportunity to take the van. The determination of everyone was quite amazing. Even Mike with his balance issues managed to drive to Clay Bank Top and walk for nearly 2 hours to reach us at the Wainstones which proved a  great viewing platform for a brief rest and lunch break. Mike brought lots of tasty leftovers which we had no trouble devouring.

Our final destination was Lion Inn at Blakey Ridge. For some, a drink, for others a quick meal but for most a quick call to their B&B host to be whisked considerably further afield.

Getting everyone back to the starting point the following morning proved a little too logistically difficult for everyone so our following day’s walk was completed in 2 groups.

Day 10 Richmond to Ingleby Cross – that A19 was a killer

And the 37kms we needed to walk to get there wasn’t a bad effort either. This day was really about crossing the vale of Mowbray in order to get to the Cleveland Hills to start our traverse of the North York Moors. Wainwright readily admits this section is to be endured rather than enjoyed in order to continue on towards loftier places.  From what I can remember it involved zigzagging across lots of paddocks, avoiding road works and spending a lot of time on very quiet country roads with nothing much to see bar our weary feet.

The only place along the way where food could be had was the White Swan at Danby Wiske. Barely open and we descended on them for cold drinks, probably G&Ts, cups of tea for some, sandwiches and some wonderful home-made flapjacks.

I do admit my left knee suffered this day with the many rickety stile crossings and at one stage I took to walking up and down the same field while waiting for some of the other walkers for fear I wouldn’t able to start again if I stopped.  And while I vaguely entertained the idea that we might all walk a marathon this day if it only involved walking another 5kms I do congratulate Merran for actually shooting off ahead of us and actually doing it. What’s 5kms when you have already covered 225kms.

Well I didn’t photograph much this day as you can understand but I think you need to see what the A19 crossing was all about. A rude awakening to our little amble across the English countryside and I suspect not at all as busy when Wainwright devised this route in 1973. I think an overpass bridge may be in order about now or I think the Coast2Coast may need to be named Coast to A19 splat…

We were treated to an absolutely divine meal that evening at Park House. Beverly and Michael put on an absolute feast Aussie style – chargrilled BBQ’d chicken wings and corn, a massive selection of the freshest salads with wonderful combinations, breads, dips, olives, potatoes and then topped it off with a scrumptious Eton Mess and indescribable gateaux creamy log which I just had to go back for seconds. Still working on fitting into my clothes. I suspect these little treats may have contributed. But tonight we deserved it. We’d walked a long way and hopefully were ready to tackle another 31kms the next day.

Day 9 – Richmond – and on the 7th day God rested, as did we

In this case the day was Sunday the 7th of September and rest was definitely earned. For Mike and I it had even more significance being our 29th wedding anniversary. But no romantic dinner for us.

We invited the whole group to join us for a lovely French meal at Le Rustique. The owner was like a drill sergeant in his attempt to get the orders perfect – could we remember what we ordered 48 hours prior after consuming 10 meals already?- No. Did we care – No? Well it all sorted itself out in the end and the Mussels were the crowd favourite. Some beautiful gifts were given to us by our wonderful walking friends and we were thrilled to share this special day with everybody.

Earlier in the day everyone chose their own pleasure. For some a massage, for others a town tour, for others a quiet drink in the market place or a walk around Richmond castle. There was plenty to keep us occupied.

In the afternoon the Richmondshire Branch of the MS Society organised a wonderful choral performance in Richmond’s Georgian Theatre. They sang songs relevant to our walk, thanked us for our interest in supporting MS and thoroughly welcomed us to their beautiful town. According to our B & B host that hill you can see over yonder in the final photo is where Lewis Carroll’s Mad Hatter supposedly had his tea party.

Day 8 Reeth to Richmond – rain, what’s that?

We woke up to a few spits of rain on the window sill. Nothing to be worried about. Just a bit grey but it did start to patter a little heavier. So this was the day we actually used our expensive waterproofs.  And it rained lightly for about 2 hours. That’s it. That was the extent of the inclement English weather. Not complaining one bit.

Another day of stiles and some interesting squeeze points.

Today the local Hambleton and Richmondshire Branch of the MS Society UK was welcoming us to Richmond. Out with the Aussie flag as we prepared the residents for our rowdy entrance.

Richmond is the largest town on the route and many were looking forward to a much anticipated day of rest and seeing the back of me I suspect. Melva Steckles welcomed us at the Station, originally Richmond’s railway station but now converted to a cinema and shopping centre. A cup of tea and a good yawn was in order. For some a much needed massage and some foot therapy, if they could find the massage therapist.

Our accommodation was spread all over the place so some gathered for a relaxing Thai meal in their rooms while others joined the Society members for a lovely meal at La Piazza 2.  Everyone was looking forward to our one and only sleep in tomorrow before some gathered for a town tour at 10 am the next day.  I leave you with a lovely photo of Deb wearing her birthday gift from the King’s Arms. Yet another memento of the Tour de France. And the best of friends, Sal and Pauline, sharing that salt around – never eat them much at home but they became a staple packed lunch inclusion and we all got a hankering for them.

 

Day 7 – you take the low road and I’ll take the high – Keld to Reeth

Today the van decided to have a starring role by virtue of the fact we had lost its one and only key. The ability to replenish our snacks and put spare boots in the back was now a total no goer. And what modicum of privacy Mike and I may have had went totally out the window as our bedroom and contents were totally searched by everybody. I’m surprised I managed to smile outside Keld Lodge. Meanwhile poor Mike was inside speaking to Volkswagen, Key Cutters, Locksmiths – anybody really who could get us out of this pickle.  He looked so devastated but unfortunately we had to move on. I agreed to keep in touch with him when I had 4 bar mobile reception and crossed my fingers that things would miraculously work out.

Today is reputed to be Swaledale heaven if you take the leisurely low route and many of the walkers were keen to do this. Not me, of course. Being a bit of a history buff and always loving a view (never as kid surprisingly) I wanted to take the high route through rich lead mining areas of days gone by.  Jacqueline Ballard, Dianne Ramsay, Merran Cooper and Sue Fitzpatrick graciously accepted my offer of higher places though I suspect they saw the low route as equally appealing. Thank you girls. Well we set off with great gusto and completely missed the turnoff. Little did we know Tansey’s army buddy, John, from her earlier training days near Richmond, was humourously watching our navigational skills from the other side of the valley.

After a bit of adjustment we were on the right track  – the heather continued to bloom and the ruins were most interesting. And the day was brilliant. What more could we ask for – keys perhaps. I hope Mike was not preparing to slit his wrists by now.

John joined us for lunch on the other side. Once the ruins subsided and the terrain became a little uninteresting as lead had poisoned all the surrounding vegetation we set a cracking pace to get to Reeth. Some remnants of the Yorkshire Dales’ hosting of the Tour de France was in evidence with yellow painted bicycles decorating people’s gardens.

Meanwhile the rest of the crew were having leisurely lunches, doing detours to the lovely little village of Muker, and generally ambling as slowly as they could.

 

We beat them (I know it’s not a race) by a good hour or so. Meanwhile our luggage had arrived at the Kings Arms where we were staying. Some had a relaxing drink but Merran and I decided to go through every bit of Mike’s and my luggage – just one more time. I still see the moment when Merran found the key at the bottom of my backpack. Yes, I’d safely carried it 18kms over the dales completely clueless as to where it may be.

We rang Mike who was just about to commit harakiri.  A quick drive back to Reeth with John and Merran retrieving Mike and car and we were now ready to celebrate once again. Merran (as with Chris) I owe you one too.

Lynda from the King’s Arms treated us all to a lovely glass of bubbles in celebration of Debbie Bird’s birthday this time. We squeezed in to a fairly tiny but intimate dining room, had a lovely meal, and Deb received a cake and a major explosion.

Mike and I retired early. Way too much excitement for one day but some managed to party on and Maria’s undiscovered singing talents  had walkers and patrons alike singing anything they could muster. Another wonderful but slightly too eventful day. I wonder what the next day would bring.

 

Day 1 – St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge

It was my birthday today but I had only one thing on my mind. Getting this show on the road. A bit brisk and cloudy at the start with representatives from the MS Society UK there to send us off.

Many photos were had by the Coast to Coast starting point then we headed to the shoreline to select a rock to throw into the North Sea when we reached the other side as well as dip our boots in the sea.

As it happens the tide was out so this little ritual took some time but we headed off just 10 mins behind schedule. Pleased so far.

A nice little heart starter awaited us as we headed up St Bee’s northern headland.  Mike joined us for a bit which was lovely before heading back to the support vehicle. Little did he know a few early injuries would see his services in hot demand a few hours later. But for now we were just happy to be enjoying the start. The 6 months of hype and anticipation was now a reality and we were definitely going to enjoy every minute of it.

Hi Ho Hi Ho It’s off on a walk we go.

An early lunch and some retirees to the van for a bit of rest and repair then on to our first real mountain, well really a hill but it took a while to get there.

Dent Hill had a magnificent view and a sense of achievement was felt by all. It was wonderful having Yvonne Booth  and her friend Ella Penuel Ferguson Scott join and guide us on the first leg of our journey. Yvonne is famous – the MS Society UK’s 2013 Fundraiser of the year recipient – for her annual fundraiser the “10in10” Challenge (10 peaks in 10 hours) for MS research. It was a privilege having them both join us for today and tomorrow’s walk.

As the saying goes “what goes up must come down”. To enter Ennerdale we need to descend what is actually the steepest slope on the whole Coast 2 Coast route. Fortunately our toes were all in good condition at this stage so with tentative careful steps we were soon at the base of the valley enjoying a delightful walk alongside Nannycatch Beck. A welcome surprise in the valley was meeting for the first time our other guides – Chris and Jan Ainsworth and Joel Griffiths – who warmly escorted us back to Ennerdale.

In the late afternoon we finally arrived at the Shepherd’s Arms where most of us would be dining. Their chef baked me a wonderful birthday cake and decorated it with our Kiss Goodbye to MS red cap.

Thank you Keith for treating us to a very special evening, not least for the fact we had successfully completed our first day. The van, on the other hand, was enjoying a journey all on its own. All we can say is what happens on tour stays on tour. Needless to say it enjoyed a wide berth for the rest of our journey.

 

 

 

 

Day 6 – Kirkby Stephen to Keld – bogged proper and lovin’ it

First a lovely team photo before we depart and then we couldn’t resist another one with Frank’s Bridge as a backdrop.

Today we cross the Pennine Way and potentially meet those calf swallowing bogs. Jackie and I guided the team to Nine Standards Rigg. Usually windy and bitterly cold the photos tend to suggest otherwise.

Chris Ainsworth walked from Keld to meet us at this half way point. From now the waters run west towards the North Sea but the non porous limestone platform is a perfect climate for peaty bogs regardless of the weather. Negotiating bogs takes a bit of foresight, local knowledge and a good reach – none of which I apparently had. Chris was expertly guiding us across the reeds and instructing us to walk quickly in a light footed sort of way.  In my own little mind I had this mastered. I’m going to find my own route and yes, those calf swallowing peat bogs, took me good and proper. Very quicksand-like so all I could do was laugh and wait patiently for Chris after he had guided everyone else safely to the other side. I was about a metre short of the bank and with arms outstretched Chris yanked me with all his strength. I needed to rest on the bank before a second effort extricated me from that muck. Doug had a wee mishap too but it was all good fun. Just couldn’t imagine how difficult and dangerous this terrain must be if the weather was any worse than ideal. Thanks for saving me Chris. I owe you one.

Also must give a wee little plug to Sea to Summit for the best knee gaiters ever. My boots were completely waterproof after my unscheduled dip and legs were also completely dry. Good to know all that gear investment finally paid off. Well you’ve seen the worst of it now but there was a fair distance where we had to be careful. As best I could I followed Chris closely before the urge to stride out on those open moors took hold of me. My Coast2Coast-waypoint-loaded GPS was most helpful as we strided out towards Keld.

After a brief rest we came upon a little gem in Ravenseat Farm. Amanda Owen, the Yorkshire Shepherdess, her husband Clive and her 7 children hosted us to a superb afternoon tea. When not lambing or attending to other crucial farm duties she serves the best tea and scones for weary walkers. She probably didn’t know what hit her when 24 walkers all wanted cream teas but she didn’t indicate it was a problem and we thoroughly enjoyed the break. It was lovely to see Mike join us too.

Amanda has recently written a book about her life in Yorkshire and the van came in handy to ferry several autographed hard copies back to our B & Bs. I’ve read the book and I thoroughly recommend it.

As we left the farm we started to see more of the magic of the Yorkshire Dales – those beautiful dry stone walls and barns dot the entire countryside.  One feel a sense of peace and calm walking through this delightful area.

Not such a long day today so it was wonderful to walk in to Keld and savour the fading light.

 

Day 5 – Shap to Kirkby Stephen – a day of ancient monuments best seen aerially – I’d agree with that

Part of the crew leaving the Hermitage all bright eyed and bushy tailed.

We’ve walked over a third of the way now (some 100kms) and we have a solid 34kms today. Not the most picturesque of days despite all the hype about its archaeological significance but it’s a bit difficult to notice ancient settlements when all you see are gentle undulations or mounds. And after experiencing some of the most divine scenery in the Lake District I guess our total ignorance of these little mole hills is understandable.

But our first glimpse of heather is a lovely new addition to the ever changing scenery.

But if 20 all-the-way walkers is not enough today’s real significance was in welcoming another Australian walker to our Dales section. Sue Fitzpatrick from Melbourne trained it in to Kirkby Stephen and Mike, our one and only support crew, picked her up and promptly deposited her at Sunbiggin Tarn to join us for half today’s journey.  There was the VW Support van parked on a road hardly recognisable and 200 metres away Mike and Sue standing on a very nondescript path just waiting for us literally in the middle of nowhere. So with very fresh legs Sue set off with us for an relatively easy walk into Kirkby Stephen. Lots of stiles and gates – free to choose the method you prefer and watch those livestock. Have heard the odd horror story about being killed by cow. What a way to go.

Carol, our lovely host at the Jolly Farmer ushered us in for tea and scones. She was accommodating all of us and had quite a seasoned routine for dealing with Coast2Coast walkers. Some were instructed to shower first, others were instructed to place their dinner order and others their lunch orders for the following day.  All we wanted to do was have a drink. So I guess numbers won on the day. The bar was opened, a scone was produced because that is what you were expected to eat, everyone sorted their own dinner and I do recall Cheese and Onion was the preferred sandwich choice or perhaps the only choice. Dear Carol, we must have been quite a force to contend with but we thoroughly enjoyed our stay and loved your cheery B & B with the creative use of spent hiking boots.